Tuesday, February 22, 2011

These are few of my favorite things...






Na-PCA - This super inexpensive spray pulls water out of the air, moisturizing the skin - giving your skin a youthful glow ($8-$10) Whole Foods.



Clarisonic- Sonic facial brush, Used and recommended by spas and Dermatologists - Removes make-up, and penetrates product. Reduces fine lines and leaves your skin smooth!
Satin/silk Pillow Case. (skip the poly blend) Great for your hair and your skin. Once you try one, you will not be able to sleep without it. 
Organic Jojoba - slather this on at night, your face will drink it up. 


Here's to "Life"!  This is a must read.  
  
xx, your skin punk

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Obsessed with sleep and a thinner mid-section?

Like watching paint dry. An excerpt from 1963 Andy Warhol's "Sleep", 8 hours of footage watching his friend John Giorno...Sleep. It was said that he originally wanted to film Brigitte Bardot sleeping. That seems slightly more interesting. 



Beauty sleep is not a myth and sleep does lessen the severity of wrinkles in the face and neck, at least temporarily. Part of this is due to a decline in body temperature and a shift in body position. The body cools in anticipation of bed time (about half a degree) and to do so, the circulatory system increases blood flow to the skin. This is why the cheeks often flush at night.
What does it mean to be “radiant”? It generally means the color of the skin moves closer to the color of blood. A radiator in a house or car movers hot liquid around to distribute heat, and so does the circulatory system move warm blood around and skin tone changes to affect body temperature. This is why some people appear more radiant just before bedtime or during sleep.
Early in the nighttime sleep cycle, people typically have a surge in growth hormone. This period of deep sleep, contributes to what people call "beauty sleep" as secretion of growth hormone helps repair and rebuild body tissues like muscle and bone. Many of the body’s cells also show increased production and reduced breakdown of proteins during deep sleep. Since proteins are the building blocks needed for cell growth and for repair of damage from factors like stress and ultraviolet rays, deep sleep may truly be "beauty sleep."
Increased growth hormone release is believed to be linked to the fasting state, which develops in human sleep. There is some evidence that skin cells regenerate faster at night than during the day. Cell division happens throughout the day, but peaks around 2 am. This is literally renewal and rejuvenation during sleep. The peak in cell division happens even if you stay awake at night, while the surge in growth hormone doesn't.
Human nighttime sleep is lengthy in comparison with that of many other mammals. Other animals usually don't have releases of growth hormone during sleep and few other mammals enter a fasting state during sleep. Herbivores continue to digest food throughout their sleep, carnivores gorge themselves on meat, which can take up to a day to digest, and rodents wake up periodically to nibble more food. The human sleep-related growth hormone surge may be a mechanism to protect tissue protein against potentially detrimental effects of this fast, and also to promote the body's mobilization of its fat reserves.
What happens if you don't get your beauty sleep? It is not just lack of sleep that negatively affects body fat percentage and the risk of chronic disease—poor sleep quality does as well. Deep sleep also helps to negate the bad effects of cortisol. Growth hormone naturally decreases with age and also with increased abdominal fat, leading to a vicious cycle of fatigue, excess stress hormone and increased abdominal fat.


Saturday, February 19, 2011

Researchers aim to 'print' human skin

Each cell type is placed in a vial, rather than in cartridges. The cells are then "printed" directly on the wound. Scientists used a modified inkjet printer loaded with living cells. "We are engineering human skin," says Dr. Anthony Atala. The project may take another five years of development before it is ready.

By Dana Rosenblatt, CNN

(CNN) -- Researchers are developing a specialized skin "printing" system that could be used in the future to treat soldiers wounded on the battlefield.
Scientists at the Wake Forest Institute for Regenerative Medicine were inspired by standard inkjet printers found in many home offices.
"We started out by taking a typical desktop inkjet cartridge. Instead of ink we use cells, which are placed in the cartridge," said Dr. Anthony Atala, director of the institute.
The device could be used to rebuild damaged or burned skin.
The project is in pre-clinical phases and may take another five years of development before it is ready to be used on human burn victims, he said.
Other universities, including Cornell University and the Medical University of South Carolina, Charleston, are working on similar projects and will speak on the topic on Sunday at the American Association for the Advancement of Science conference in Washington. These university researchers say organs -- not just skin -- could be printed using similar techniques.
Burn injuries account for 5% to 20% of combat-related injuries, according to the Armed Forces Institute of Regenerative Medicine. The skin printing project is one of several projects at Wake Forest largely funded by that institute, which is a branch of the U.S. Department of Defense.
Wake Forest will receive approximately $50 million from the Defense Department over the next five years to fund projects, including the skin-creating system.
Researchers developed the skin "bio-printer" by modifying a standard store-bought printer. One modification is the addition of a three-dimensional "elevator" that builds on damaged tissue with fresh layers of healthy skin.
The skin-printing process involves several steps. First, a small piece of skin is taken from the patient. The sample is about half the size of a postage stamp, and it is taken from the patient by using a chemical solution.
Those cells are then separated and replicated on their own in a specialized environment that catalyzes this cell development.
"We expand the cells in large quantities. Once we make those new cells, the next step is to put the cells in the printer, on a cartridge, and print on the patient," Atala said.
The printer is then placed over the wound at a distance so that it doesn't touch the burn victim. "It's like a flat-bed scanner that moves back and forth and put cells on you," said Atala.
Once the new cells have been applied, they mature and form new skin.
Specially designed printer heads in the skin bio-printer use pressurized nozzles -- unlike those found in traditional inkjet printers.
The pressure-based delivery system allows for a safe distance between the printer and the patient and can accommodate a variety of body types, according to a 2010 report from the Armed Forces Institute of Regenerative Medicine.
The device can fabricate healthy skin in anywhere from minutes to a few hours, depending on the size and type of burn, according to the report.
"You are building up the cells layer after layer after layer," Atala said.
Acquiring an adequate sample can be a challenge in victims with extensive burns, he said, since there is sometimes "not enough (skin) to go around with a patient with large burns," Atala said.
The sample biopsy would be used to grow new cells then placed in the printer cartridge, said Atala.
Researchers said it is difficult to speculate when the skin printer may be brought to the battlefield, because of the stringent regulatory steps for a project of this nature. Once the skin-printing device meets federal regulations, military officials are optimistic it will benefit the general population as well as soldiers.
"We're not making anything military-unique," said Terry Irgens, a program director at the U.S Army Medical Materiel Development Activity.
"We hope it will benefit both soldier and civilian," he said.
In the meantime, researchers said they're pleased with results of preliminary laboratory testing with the skin printer.
Atala said the researchers already have been able to make "healthy skin."

freckles. gift or curse?


This is a subject close to my heart - and probably one of the reasons that I went to school for skin care. As a child I didn't realize that I had freckles - which seems strange to some I guess. I looked in the mirror and just didn't see them. Maybe it was sort of (self love) is blind. ha. My brother, however took no prisoners when it came to nicknames and ridicule. Thankfully, I had a healthy sense of self and came out relatively unscathed from the freckle heckler. And to this day, I still have freckles. Saying that, I have become a bit of an expert on the subject. Are they a gift or a curse? And what the hell are they?
To give a little background, there are really two types (there are more, but these are rare forms that include rare diseases - and I have yet to meet a freckle face who has these). They are ephelides and lentigines. Ephelides are flat red or light-brown spots that typically appear during the sunny months and fade in the winter. These are common on light skinned people and red heads. They are multiple in numbers. Lentigines are small tan, brown, or black spots which tend to be darker than an ephelis-type freckle and which do not fade in the winter. These are also made worse by the sun. These are sometimes called Solar Lentigines.

The sun is not the only factor that induces freckles. Heredity also influences freckling, as witnessed by the striking similarity in the total number of freckles on identical twins. Such similarities are considerably less marked in fraternal twins.

So, what do you do if you have them as an adult? The first thing is to decide whether you care. Personally, I have lasered, bleached and peeled. And they come and go. Oh well. I've noticed that if you have healthy skin (underneath the freckles), and a healthy attitude - the rest shouldn't matter. But, if it does and you want to know what works and what doesn't. Send me a note.
And, don't forget your sunscreen every single day, rain or shine.

These are painted on. Really.



"Some of my friends are like freckles. There's actually no explanation for my affection for them. Who knows of why or what use freckles are; yet, I kind of like mine and would miss them very much if they were gone.”

Owen J. McClain

why Skin Punk?

I've always been interested in finding out for myself what works (in life, and in general), and what myths/illusions to bust open. As I started working for myself in the skin care business, I came across a lot of information on just that subject as it pertains to beauty, and some of it was just not true. The industry of skin care preys on women to pull out their wallets and spend!  While some products and procedures are worth the expenditure, some are not unlike the Emperor's new clothes. Money will not make you beautiful. Duh.  


I initially started this blog so that my clients could read up on some of the products that I like, have tried and find helpful.  Some times I will read up on something that I want to share, and I will re-post the entire article as it reads (because quite frankly it's better than I could have done). 
I have also found that beauty in life, enjoyment of people, capturing moments with family and friends, listening to great music, smiling, optimism -- all go hand in hand with external beauty.  Words, compassion, character and humility they all play a part in living a well-rounded life. There's more than a face - there's more to life than skin. We know that! So let's discuss all of it, while looking and feeling good while doing it. 


Oh and before I forget, please see a short disclaimer here: Information that has been reproduced on this blog, had been found in various places on the Internet and is believed to be public domain (Title 17, U.S. code). 


With love, Your skin punk

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Jojoba Oil - Updated - Not just for hippies anymore.

One of my fellow Estheticians recommended that I start looking at Jojoba Oil as an essential part of my facial protocol. She gave me all of the stats on it and touted its healing properties.  "Ugh, I responded, that hippy stuff?"  All I could think about was my childhood, the smell of patchouli, drinking Kefir and waiting for dinner from a yogurt maker. Yes, a yogurt maker. Will discuss later...
Jojoba Oil, I just don’t like the way it sounds. Actually just the word "oil”, I guess. I just realized that. Who knew that this blog would flash me back?  Anyway, I begrudgingly started using it and found some real test information on it. It’s amazing and odorless. Anyone who suffers from dry skin, or aging skin might want to give it a try. It's fairly inexpensive (invest in Organic - Whole Foods sells this for less than $20).
In dermatological tests done, using jojoba oil, by Christensen and Packman, it was shown that jojoba oil increases the skin's suppleness by 45% and after 8 hours the effect was still present. It was also found that jojoba oil softens and smoothes the skin with fine line reduction. In one test 20 women's skin compliance increased with 37% after 30 minutes and remained for an hour. Continued use of jojoba oil results in reducing superficial facial lines.
Reduction of such lines was 26%, 18% and 11% after 1, 4 and 8 hours in conducted tests. Jojoba oil was also tested for hypoallergenic reactions. Two out of 50 people with known allergic skin types showed reactions to Jojoba. This reaction on the inherently hyper-allergic skins cleared completely after 24 hours. Tests at Michigan University showed that five of the most common skin bacteria plus certain skin fungi couldn't survive in jojoba oil. Professor Zille of Port Elizabeth University carried out studies on the anti-bacterial effects of jojoba oil and the results were presented at a Coshem Congress held in Mintek, which found that jojoba oil destroys the bacteria staphylococcus and pseudomonas within 1 hour and 15 minutes. Studies on jojoba oil at the Ben Gurion University in Israel have shown that jojoba oil relieves the symptoms of psoriases.


Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Oh my my, I love my Galvanic...

The Benefits of a Galvanic Facial

Many choose the facial as a way to pamper themselves while caring for their skin. A facial is a very simple matter of going to a parlour and spending a few hours allowing a professional to help make your skin beautiful and bring back your youthful radiance. Although with all the facial options to choose from out there today it can be difficult to find the right one for your needs.

Types of Facials

The simplest form of a facial that you can choose is a basic clean up. These type of facials basically clean, exfoliate and moisturize your skin. The face is gently steamed to help clear up the ugly blackheads and whiteheads in addition to preventing and reducing other skin problems. After steaming the skin, a gentle scrub granule is massaged on the skin. Another creamy cleanser is applied to further exfoliate the skin after the scrub is removed. All skin types can have this type of facial and usually those under the age of twenty-five will have this type of facial. It can help reduce tanning, remove dirt and blackheads while providing a clean and glowing complexion.
Facials can be divided between a normal and a special facial. The normal facials simply cleanse, steam and massage the skin. They generally don’t cost a lot and work well for those that aren’t prone to acne. However, these normal facials are different from the basic clean up since they are massaged for a longer period of time.
A specialized facial will use a hypoallergenic cream to assist in the moisturizing of the skin. Depending on the skin type of the individuals there are different types of face packs that can be applied as well as special cleansing and rejuvenation techniques. For people with sensitive skins this is the better option to choose when undergoing a facial.
Then there is the Galvanic facial. This facial utilizes a Galvanic gadget that provides a steady, direct galvanic current to help introduce water-soluble substances to the body through the skin. This helps increase the capacity of the skin to absorb and improves the penetration of products through the skin. This makes it easier to treat specific problems. Those with dry, dehydrated skin benefit from this type of facial since it improves moisture retention. This type of facial also helps to remove congestion.

Benefits of a Galvanic Facial

Galvanic facial is an excellent way to revitalize the skin and help the active ingredients of skin products to penetrate deep within the skin. You can get a much deep penetration of ingredients with a Galvanic facial than you can with manual applications. It also helps to clean congestion on the skin and reduce the oiliness of the skin for those prone to acne. The normal functions of the skin are increased with this type of facial by helping to improve the skin’s blood circulation. The facial allows products to be directly absorbed through the skin.
The efficiency of any skin treatment can be increased with a Galvanic facial. At the start of the facial the skin is prepared according to the individuals skin type or the individual problem they are trying to resolve. Cleansing and ozone is typically used to prepare the skin. Then the Galvanic treatment is started with a specialized formulation.
For those who suffer from acne this treatment  can help remove sebaceous blockages and clear congestion that leads to acne. A hydrating and nourishing substance needs to be applied during the facial process in order for those with dry and normal skins to benefit from the use of this facial. For those who have to rejuvenate and revitalize their skin this is the best facial option to choose.
Galvanic Facial

Sunscreen...just do it!

Are some brands of sunscreen better than others?

Try several different brands to see which works best for you. Brand matters less than how you use the product. In general, look for water-resistant, broad-spectrum coverage with an appropriate SPF — at least 15 to 30. Check the expiration date, and follow the directions on the label.

What about claims that sunscreen is ineffective?

The 2010 Sunscreen Guide from the Environmental Working Group (EWG) raises questions about the effectiveness of sunscreens — but if you take this report and conclude that sunscreens are no better than snake oil, you're making a mistake. In fact, the EWG still recommends using sunscreen. It also recommends looking for shade and wearing protective clothing. These are points on which we can all agree.
Even the best sunscreen isn't perfect. Sunscreens especially fall down when it comes to UVA protection. In addition, sunscreen use alone isn't thought to prevent all skin cancers. Yet sunscreens are getting better, and using them is certainly better than using nothing at all.

Is there any truth to the claim that sunscreen use can actually increase the risk of melanoma?

Researchers don't understand why people develop melanoma — a serious form of skin cancer. There are several different types of melanoma, and not all types are equally linked to sun damage. Genetics plays a key role as well. Many factors are involved, which makes it hard to link sunscreen use with skin cancer.
If you have any risk factors for skin cancer — especially a family history of the disease — be sure to consult a dermatologist. Also remember this advice from the AAD: "Check your birthday suit on your birthday." If you notice any changes in your skin, such as growths or bleeding, consult a dermatologist right away. When detected early, most forms of skin cancer are quite treatable.

What else is it important to remember about using sunscreen?

When you use sunscreen:
  • Apply generous amounts of sunscreen to dry skin 30 minutes before you go outdoors.
  • Use sunscreen on all skin surfaces that will be exposed to sun — especially your face, ears, hands, arms and lips. If you don't have much hair on your head, apply sunscreen to the top of your head or wear a hat.
  • Coat your skin well and rub sunscreen in thoroughly.
  • Reapply sunscreen every two hours — more often if you're perspiring.
  • Reapply sunscreen immediately after swimming.
  • Remember that sand, water and snow reflect sunlight and make it even more important to use sunscreen.
  • Since UVA rays penetrate glass and clouds, use sunscreen even when it's cloudy or you're indoors but in rooms with lots of windows.
You can apply sunscreen to children as young as age 6 months. Keep younger children in the shade as much as possible.

What's the bottom line on sunscreen?

Use sunscreen year-round, but don't let any product lull you into a false sense of security about exposure to the sun. A combination of shade, clothing, sunscreen and common sense is your best bet.